Tucked away in the far northeast corner of Oregon is one of the most scenic areas in the United States. Known in the Northwest as the American Alps, the Wallowa Mountains do share characteristics of the European Alps, though they are less extensive (only 40 miles in length) and not as high (highest peak 9839 ft). But they have the same granite composition and much of the majesty of the Alps. These mountains are strikingly distinct from the volcanic peaks of the Cascade Range that most people think of when they picture Oregon mountains.
The mountains rise up majestically from the floor of the Wallowa Valley, a verdant expanse punctuated by farms and some of the most photographically appealing barns in the United States. These barns with the Wallowas rising in the background are frequently found in Country magazine and other publications and ads that focus on bucolic living. A visit to the Wallowa Valley just to tour the barns is eminently worthwhile.
In addition to the valley and the mountains, this area boasts the deepest river canyon in the United States—Hell’s Canyon of the Snake River between Oregon and Idaho. From the Seven Devil’s Mountains on the Idaho side to the Snake River below is a drop of over 8,000 feet, deeper than the Grand Canyon. In addition, the somewhat less deep but even more photogenic Imnaha River Canyon is definitely worth a visit. To the north, the Grand Ronde River valley has some spectacular vistas across the border into Washington.
Let’s look at each of these areas—Wallowa Mountains, Wallowa Valley, and the river canyons—separately because they each have their better season for visiting, and they don’t always overlap.
Except for the part of the mountains that border the Wallowa Valley to the north and the small towns to the south, much of these mountains are accessible only by hiking or packing in. Most of the Wallowa Range is within the Eagle Cap Wilderness Area, named for the most outstanding, though not highest, peak in the range. Horses are allowed and many people utilize them as the wilderness area is very large and horses make it a lot easier. But some of the best spots photographically are easily within weekend backpacking range.
There is no end of places one could go to take exceptional photos in the Wallowas. I have only scratched the surface and do not consider myself an expert, but I will share my favorite photo spots and the tips I know about.
For the non-backpacker, I recommend the gondola that goes from the south end of Wallowa Lake to the top of Mt. Howard at 8,150 feet. You can walk around, get a good view into the wilderness area, and even mountain bike to the bottom. Pretty cool stuff, but not a place for award-winning photographs. For that, you need to hike.
My favorite trail in is by way of the East Fork of the Lostine River. You take a long gravel road to the trailhead, and from there it is a seven mile hike to Mirror Lake at the base of Eagle Cap. As beautiful as Mirror Lake is, for me the best part is the Lostine River Valley. At about four miles from the trailhead, the trail goes up steeply and then flattens out into one of the most remarkable valleys I’ve ever seen. The valley is a wide U shape, and directly at the end of the valley is Eagle Cap, rising dramatically with its vertical granite face. The valley is littered with granite boulders that add to the visual drama. I visited in July when the mountain heather was in bloom and it made the experience all the more dramatic. Because of snow, the trail opens in June or early July most years and closes when the first snows come, usually in October or November. One year I packed in but went over 4th of July weekend and got stopped by snow before Mirror Lake. Still, early to mid summer is the best because that’s when there is still snow on the mountains and flowers in the valleys and meadows. Mirror Lake is great, but nearby and smaller Sunshine Lake is the photographers’ favorite. Sadly, I didn’t know this when I visited, but I got some great photos of nearby areas anyway.
You have to get a good topo map to get around, but they are easy to get from the Ranger Station or online from the Forest Service. The Eagle Cap Wilderness map is a dandy.
Originally the possession of the peaceful Nez Perce Indians, this fertile valley is a gem. Few places in America have such a rich pastoral setting backed by dramatic mountains. As I noted above, the barns of the Wallowa Valley add an exceptional charm to area. And it is still very much an agricultural zone. One time Melody and I were halted in our drive as cowboys and a sizeable herd of cattle using the road to move to a new pasture.
The best time for the valley is spring, probably April to early June at the best, and early to mid October. The mountains are so much more appealing when there is snow on them, and by July it’s going fast. In October the trees on the mountainsides turn yellow and are beautiful, even better if an early snowfall touches up the summits. I would not encourage a photo visit to the valley in August or September. I went once over Labor Day and it was brown, dry, and no snow on the mountains. Bad timing. The winter, by the way, can be great with snow down to the valley floor. But the weather can be cloudy, gray, and it’s really hard to time it so that you have lots of snow all around. And of course when there is snow on the valley floor, it’s harder to drive in and out of. It may be a long time before I get a winter shot there.
The most distinctive barn in the valley is the Brennan barn east of the town of Joseph with its unusual symbol on the side and its wonderful proximity to the mountains. Another must-see barn is the Crossed Saber Ranch barn, an octagonal red building that is a photographer’s dream. Sorry I don’t have specific directions, but the nice folks at the Joseph Chamber of Commerce will probably provide a map to a host of barns if you write or email them.
I advise getting up at dawn. The barns are best in morning light (especially Brennan and Crossed Saber). You may want to scout out locations the afternoon before.
The wildflowers on the Zumwalt prairie north of the valley bloom in late May to mid June. The Zumwalt prairie, a high, flat land now thankfully owned by the Nature Conservancy, is thousands of acres of native prairie grasses with the Wallowa Mountains in the distance.
I have seen some really good photos of Hell’s Canyon. None of them is mine. I have to tell you, Hell’s Canyon is tough to photograph. Steve Terrill has some fantastic photos from the Buckhorn Overlook, but to get that quality of photo you have to be there when the Indian Paintbrush is in bloom and the weather is just right. If you arrive late in the season, the vegetation gets brown pretty fast and it’s not that great. And Buckhorn Overlook is 50 miles on a gravel road from the Wallowa Valley. It requires dedication.
Hell’s Canyon, while dramatic and deep, is not as nearly as visually appealing as the Grand Canyon in Arizona. It is deep, but it lacks the islands of rock pinnacles, the geologic layers, and the varied rock colors of the Grand Canyon. So don’t expect to come back with stunning photos that will have your friends oooing and aahing.
The Imnaha Canyon, on the other hand, is more visually accessible. It still has its challenges, but you can at least photograph it from the bottom or the top thanks to good roads. I prefer it a good deal over Hell’s Canyon, and it is still over 2,000 feet deep. Pretty dramatic.
I have not been to the Grand Ronde River Valley yet, but I’ve seen some very impressive photos from the high points above the river. Spring seems the best time to be there with the hills all cloaked in green.